Weaving Method Of Double-Warp And Quadruple-Weft Jacquard Fabric With Double-Weft Color Gradient Expression

This patent application claims the benefit and priority of Chinese Patent Application No. 202410402274.7, entitled “WEAVING METHOD OF DOUBLE-WARP AND QUADRUPLE-WEFT JACQUARD FABRIC WITH DOUBLE-WEFT COLOR GRADIENT EXPRESSION” filed on Apr. 3, 2024, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety as part of the present application.

The present disclosure relates to a weaving method of a double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard fabric with double-weft color gradient expression, pertaining to the technical field of the weaving of jacquard fabrics.

In the invention and practice of layered-combination design mode, colors in the digital pattern are directly corresponded to gamut weaves in the gamut weave-database formed based on the layered-combination design modes, which is used for the development of novel jacquard fabrics, and breaks through shortcomings of traditional single-plane design mode of jacquard fabrics, such as the limitations of fabric structure construction and color expression. Jacquard structures with bidirectional multi-group thread configuration could solve the shortage of constraint color gamut space on color model of the unidirectional multi-group thread configuration structure, thus extending the double-weft color gradient expression method of a double-warp and triple-weft structure model. However, the construction of jacquard structure models determines the number of color expression thread groups, thus determining the color of fabrics. Based on this, the double-warp and triple-weft structure model still has some shortcomings in color development, and there is no relevant literature about the weaving method for the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard fabric structure with double-weft color gradient expression.

In view of this, the present disclosure is proposed.

In view of this, the present disclosure provides a weaving method of a double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard fabric with double-weft color gradient expression. With the layered-combination design mode, the combined color gradient expression of any two groups of weft threads on a fabric surface is achieved, and the fabric is endowed with abundant color expression.

Specifically, the present disclosure is achieved through the following technical solutions:

Provided is a weaving method of a double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard fabric with double-weft color gradient expression, includes/consists of the following steps:

In some embodiments, in step 1, two groups of threads are arranged in warp direction, i.e., the warp combination composed of a first warp Jand a second warp J; and four groups of threads are arranged in weft direction, i.e., a weft combination composed of a first weft W, a second weft W, a third weft W, and a fourth weft W; in some embodiments, the first warp J, the second warp Jare arranged from left to right at a ratio of 1:1, and the first weft W, the second weft W, the third weft W, and the fourth weft Ware arranged from top to bottom at a ratio of 1:1:1:1.

In some embodiments, in step 2 the twill or satin is selected from three elementary weaves; in some embodiments, N satisfies 5≤N≤48 and is an integer; in some embodiments, S is an integer.

In some embodiments, in step 2, the basic weave I and the basic weave II are used to design a face coloring weave I and a face coloring weave II; in some embodiments, the wefts are arranged sequentially from top to bottom at an arrangement ratio of 1:1 and configured to form a face coloring compound weave; in some embodiments, a number Qof optional basic weaves is determined by a weave repeat number N and a number Qof step number S when the weave repeat number is N; a number Qof optional weaves of the basic weave I satisfies: Q=N×Q, a number Qof optional weaves of the basic weave II satisfies: Q=(N−2), a number of optional basic weaves, Q=Q×Q; in some embodiments, full-color technical point weaves are designed according to the basic weave I and the basic weave II.

In some embodiments, in step 2, an reinforcement speed of the warp interlacing point is set as M, and M satisfies 1≤M≤N, and is an integer; under the condition that M=N, a level of weaves in the face coloring weave-database I and a level of weaves in the face coloring weave-database II both reach minimum, each being N−2, and a level of correspondingly formed face coloring compound weaves is minimum, namely (N−2); and under the condition that M=1, a level of weaves in the face coloring weave-database I and a level of weaves in the face coloring weave-database II both are maximum, namely, (N−2)+(N−3)×(N−1), and a level of correspondingly formed face coloring compound weaves is maximum, namely [(N−2)+(N−3)×(N−1)].

In some embodiments, in step 3, double-weft color gradient expression is required, expect for two groups of face wefts, the remaining two groups of back wefts are interwoven with back warps according to a weft-backed weave design method.

In some embodiments, in step 3, according to the arranging sequence of wefts, a back weave I and a back weave II are formed, and a back compound weave is formed at an arranging ratio of 1:1; in some embodiments, a number of optional combinations of the back weave I and a number of optional combinations of the back weave II is represented by Q, weaves with a weave repeat number of N, a divisor of the N (not being 1), and an integral multiple of the N are arranged from left to right according to an arrangement sequence from a weft-faced weave to a warp-faced weave, and a number of the weaves with a weave repeat number of N, a divisor of the N (not being 1), and an integral multiple of the N is n; Nrepresents a weave repeat number of a iweave that has a weave repeat number of the N, a divisor of the N (not being 1), or an integral multiple of the N; and Qrepresents a number of a step number Si of the iweave that has a weave repeat number of the N, a divisor of the N (not being 1), or an integral multiple of the N, and Q, N, and Qsatisfy

where 1≤i<n;

In some embodiments, in step 4, a face coloring compound weave is formed by combining reinforced basic weave I and basic weave II, and the face layer and the back layer of the fabric are stitched through a self-stitching method, which facilitates the covering of stitching interlacing point(s).

In some embodiments, in step, in one weave repeat, stitching interlacing points are uniformly distributed, and stitching interlacing points are distributed in a direction same as interlacing points of the face coloring weave I, the face coloring weave II, or the face coloring compound weave are distributed; in some embodiments, from a front view of the fabric, a back-warp face-weft stitching method is adopted, and the stitching interlacing point is designed to be a warp interlacing point, and interlacing point of face warp(s) at adjacent left side and/or right side of a back warp where the stitching interlacing point is located is a warp interlacing point, thus ensuring that stitching interlacing points of back warps and face wefts are always covered by face warps. In some embodiments, a face-warp back-weft stitching method is adopted, the stitching interlacing point is designed to be a weft interlacing point, and interlacing point(s) of face weft(s) at adjacent upper side and/or lower side of a back weft where the stitching interlacing point is located is a weft interlacing point, to guarantee that stitching interlacing points of face warps and back wefts are always covered by face wefts; in some embodiments, a combined stitching method is adopted, that is to say, a back-warp face-weft stitching method and a face-warp back-weft stitching method are meanwhile adopted.

In some embodiments, in step 4, Qrepresents a number of weave configuration manners at a stitching position; under the condition that the face layer and the back layer are not stitched, Q=1, and under the condition that the face layer and the back layer are stitched, the weave repeat number of the stitching weave is N, a divisor of the N (but not being 1), or an integral multiple of the N; Qrepresents a combinatorial number of an optional number of stitching weft interlacing points in a face-warp back-weft stitching weave, and Qrepresents a combinatorial number of an optional number of stitching warp interlacing points in a back-warp face-weft stitching weave, and Q, Q, Qand Qsatisfy:

In some embodiments, in step 5, the first warp Jand the second warp Jare arranged from left to right at an arrangement ratio of 1:1; in some embodiments, the first weft W, the second weft W, the third weft W, and the fourth weft Ware arranged from top to bottom at an arranging ratio of 1:1:1:1.

In some embodiments, in step 5, the face layer is not stitched with the back layer, an interweaving position of the face warp and the back weft is configured with a warp float; and an interweaving position of the back warp and the face weft is configured with a weft float.

In some embodiments, in step 5, the face layer is stitched with the back layer, under the condition that a back-warp face-weft stitching method is adopted, an interweaving position of the back warp and the face weft is configured with back-warp face-weft stitching weave; in some embodiments, a face-warp back-weft stitching method is adopted, an interweaving position of the face warp and the back weft is configured with face-warp back-weft stitching weave; in some embodiments, a combined stitching method is adopted, an interweaving position of the back warp and the face weft is configured with a back-warp face-weft stitching weave, and an interweaving position of the face warp and the back weft is configured with a face-warp back-weft stitching weave.

In some embodiments, in step 5, the design of a compound weave of each structure model is completed in turn according to characteristics of the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure model with double-weft color gradient expression, the maximum level of the compound weaves is 12×Q×[(N−2)+(N−3)×(N−1)]×Q×Q.

According to the weaving method above, two groups of warp threads interweave with four groups of weft threads, and any two groups of weft threads and one group of warp thread are interwoven on a fabric surface to express the color gradation effect, while the other two groups of weft threads and the remaining one group of warp thread are interwoven in the back of the fabric to form a back of the fabric without surface coloring, which meets the requirements of two-layer structure, thereby achieving the design of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard fabric with double-weft color gradient expression.

Further, in some embodiments,

In step 1, twelve structure models with double-weft color gradient expression are provided as follows:

When designing the face coloring weave, a total of twelve sets of face coloring weave-databases are provided according to twelve double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure models with double-weft color gradient expression, which are as follows: a face coloring weave-database of the first warp J, the first weft Wand the second weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the first warp J, the first weft Wand the third weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the first warp J, the first weft Wand the fourth weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the first warp J, the second weft Wand the third weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the first warp J, the second weft Wand the fourth weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the first warp J, the third weft Wand the fourth weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the second warp J, the first weft Wand the second weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the second warp J, the first weft Wand the third weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the second warp J, the first weft Wand the fourth weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the second warp J, the second weft Wand the third weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the second warp J, the second weft Wand the fourth weft W; a face coloring weave-database of the second warp J, the third weft Wand the fourth weft W.

When designing the back weave, two groups of back wefts in any double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure models with double-weft color gradient expression, according to the weft-backed weave design method, could form A×A=2 back weaves of weft-backed structure models in total, so a total of (A×A)×C=2×12=24 back weaves of weft-backed structure models could be formed based on the twelve double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure models with double-weft color gradient expression.

In some embodiments, two groups of back wefts are arranged from top to bottom in an arrangement ratio of 1:1 and interweave with back warps, which is taken as an example below:

The working principle and effects of some embodiments of the present disclosure are described as follows:

By the above technical means, the jacquard fabric of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure model with double-weft color gradient expression could be developed, two groups of warp threads and four groups of weft threads in the fabric structure jointly participate in the color gradient expression, and 12 series of gradient colors could be formed on the fabric surface. Under the constraint of the technical solution of the present disclosure, the 12 series of gradient colors in the design of the digital patterns could be randomly interspersed, and each series of colors and each face coloring compound weave in the face coloring compound weave-database could be correspondingly configured and replaced one by one, which could achieve the design and production of the jacquard fabric of a double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure model with double-weft color gradient expression that has various simulation and innovative effects, and meet the requirements of mass production of fabrics.

In order to make the technical problems to be solved, technical solutions and beneficial effects in the present disclosure clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present disclosure will be further described below in detail in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in embodiments of the present disclosure. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described here are only used to explain the present disclosure and are not used to limit the technical solutions of the present disclosure. All other embodiments obtained by a person of ordinary skill in the art based on embodiments of the present disclosure without creative efforts shall fall within the scope of the present disclosure.

It should be noted that the orientation or position indicated by the terms “upper”, “lower”, “left”, “right” and the like is the orientation or position shown in the accompanying drawings, which is only used for the convenience of description, and cannot be construed as the limitation to the technical solution.

Furthermore, the terms “first” and “second” are used for descriptive purposes only and are not to be construed as indicating or implying relative importance or implying the number of the indicated technical features. “a plurality of” means two or more, unless otherwise specifically defined.

According to an embodiment of the present disclosure, a situation that the basic weave I and the basic weave II both employ 16-thread 5-step weft-faced satin is taken as an example to describe the implementation method of the present disclosure in detail.

A face warp, a back warp, a face weft, and a back weft are arranged and combined to form twelve types of structure models, as shown into. A first warp Jand a second warp Jare configured from left to right in an arrangement ratio of 1:1, and a first weft W, a second weft W, a third weft W, and a fourth weft Ware configured from top to bottom in an arrangement ratio of 1:1:1:1. Into, parts filled with a hollow circle and a hollow triangle (two 16×16 squares) represent interweaving positions of the face warp and two groups of face wefts, respectively, while parts filled with an inverted hollow triangle and filled with a hollow diamond (two 16×16 squares) represent interweaving positions of the back warp and two groups of back wefts, respectively.

By taking the structure model 1 as an example, when the first warp Jacts as the face warp, and the first weft Wand the second weftact as the face wefts, the first warp Jand the first weft Ware interwoven according to a face coloring weave I, the first warp Jand the second weft Ware interwoven according to a face coloring weave II, the second warp Jrespectively interweaves with the third weft Wand the fourth weft Wto form a back weave I and a back weave II. Into, structure model 2, structure model 3, structure model 4, structure model 5, structure model 6, structure model 7, structure model 8, structure model 9, structure model 10, structure model 11, and structure model 12 have the same weave configuration rules as the structure model 1.

Because the structure model of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression mainly develops color on the surface of the fabric through the change of the two groups of wefts. In order to prevent the situation that the color is affected as the weft float is truncated, a reinforcement method for reinforcing the warp interlacing points by the weft transition is used. The 16-thread weft satin with a step number of 5 is used as a basic weave, an upper left corner of weave is set as a starting point (1, 1) to design a basic weave I with the starting point of (1, 1) and a basic weave II with a starting point of (14, 1). The full-color technical point weave of the basic weave II is set based on the basic weave I, and the method includes the following steps: reversing all interlacing points of the basic weave I to obtain a reversed basic weave I, taking a reversed interlacing point in the reversed basic weave I as a starting end, and reinforcing one weft interlacing point upward in a warp direction. A full-color technical point weave of the basic weave I is set based on the basic weave II, and the method includes the following steps: reversing all interlacing points of the basic weave II to obtain a reversed basic weave II, taking a reversed interlacing point in the reversed basic weave II as a starting end, and reinforcing one weft interlacing point downwards in the warp direction, as shown into.

Based on the basic weave I, without damaging the full-color technical point, in this embodiment, a reinforcement speed M=N=16 of warp interlacing points is used for reinforcement each time, the reinforcement in the weft direction goes to the right first, is avoided after encountering the full-color technical point, and returns to the starting point position and then goes to the left, thus forming a face coloring weave-database I with the number of weaves being N−2=14. Based on the basic weave II, without damaging the full-color technical point, in this embodiment, a reinforcement speed M=N=16 of warp interlacing points is used for reinforcement each time, the reinforcement in the weft direction goes to the right first, is avoided after encountering the full-color technical point, and returns to the starting point position and then goes to the left, thus forming a face coloring weave-database II with the number of weaves being N−2=14. In the face coloring weave-database I and the face coloring weave-database II, the weaves are numbered from 1 to 14 from left to right and from top to bottom, as shown inand.

In some embodiments of the disclosure, the two groups of back wefts, i.e., the third weft Wand the fourth weft W, are arranged from top to bottom in an arrangement ratio of 1:1, and separately interweave with the second warp Jaccording to a weft-backed weave design method to form a back weave I and a back weave II, where the back weave I covers the back weave II. According to the characteristics of the face coloring weave and the principle of interweaving balance, the weave repeat numbers of the back weave and the face coloring weave are the same or an integral multiple of each other. A 16/5 weft satin with the starting point of (1, 1) in the face coloring weave-database I is used as the back weave I, and 16/5 warp satin with a starting point of (11,1) is selected as the back weave II, as shown inand.

Because the face warp and the face weft are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, and the 16-thread 5-step weft-faced satin is used as the basic weave, the face coloring weave-database I and the face coloring weave-database II formed by increasing the number of warp interlacing points in the weft direction are used for coloring by interweaving the warps and wefts through continuous weft float and warp interlacing points. Therefore, a back-warp face-weft stitching method is selected to stitch a face layer and a back layer of the fabric, the stitching point is the warp interlacing point, interlacing point(s) of face warps at adjacent left side and/or right side of the stitching point, must be warp interlacing points, thus ensuring that stitching interlacing points are always covered by face warps. In the design process of the stitching weave, in order to make the surface of the jacquard fabric of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression to achieve uniform and gradient double-weft transition effect, the basic weave I of 16-thread 5-step weft-faced satin is used as the stitching weave, warp interlacing points of the obtained stitching weave are always covered by warp interlacing points of the shaded weaves in the face coloring weave-database, thus satisfying the double-layer structure design requirements. According to the characteristics of the face coloring weave I, it could be determined that the stitching weave has unique rationality, as shown in.

According to the design of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure model with double-weft color gradient expression, a compound weave is formed according to a design method of the double-layer structure. First, in a combined structure model, the first warp Jand the second warp Jare arranged from left to right in an arrangement ratio of 1:1, the first weft W, the second weft W, the third weft W, and the fourth weft Ware arranged from top to bottom according to an arrangement ratio of 1:1:1:1. Secondly, a face coloring weave is arranged at an interweaving position of the face warp and the face weft, and a backing weave is arranged at an interweaving position of the back warp and the back weft, warps at interweaving positions of the face warp and the back weft are all lifted, thereby configuring warp interlacing points, and a stitching weave and a weft interlacing point are configured at an interweaving position of the back warp and the face wefts.

According to the characteristics of the twelve double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure models with double-weft color gradient expression, the face coloring weave, the back weave, the stitching weave, the weft interlacing point and the warp interlacing point configured at the corresponding positions are combined to establish the compound weave-databases with double-weft color gradient expression of the twelve double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structures.

After setting the structure modelin(panel (a) of), the compound weave process with double-weft color gradient expression is explained as follows: drawing a face coloring weave I at a position where the first warp Jinterweaves with the first weft W, drawing a face coloring weave II at a position where the first warp Jinterweaves with the second weft W, drawing a back weave I at a position where the second warp Jinterweaves with the third weft W, and drawing a back weave II at a position where the second warp Jinterweaves with the fourth weft W(panel (b) of)→configuring a warp interlacing point at positions where the first warp Jinterweaves with the third weft Wand the fourth weft W(panel (c) of)→drawing a stitching weave at a position where the second warp Jinterweaves with the first weft W, and configuring a weft interlacing point at a position where the second warp Jinterweaves with the second weft W(panel (d) of)→interweaving the first warp Jwith the first weft W, the second weft W, the third weft W, and the fourth weft Wfrom top to bottom in an arrangement ratio of 1:1:1:1 according to the rules, and interleaving the second warp Jwith the first weft W, the second weft W, the third weft W, and the fourth weft Wfrom top to bottom in an arrangement ratio of 1:1:1:1 (panel (e) of)→combining the interweaving rule of the first warp Jwith the first weft W, the second weft W, the third weft W, and the fourth weft Wand the interweaving rule of the second warp Jwith the first weft W, the second weft W, the third weft W, and the fourth weft Wfrom left to right in an arrangement ratio of 1:1, thus forming the compound weave (panel (f) of).

Based on the above steps, the compound weaves of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression are summarized to establish a complete compound weave-database. The structure model 1 inis taken as an example, as shown in, fourteen 16-thread 5-step satins based on the starting point of (1, 1) shown inare used as the face coloring weave I, and fourteen 16-thread 5-step satins based on the starting point of (14, 1) shown inare used as the face coloring weave II. The basic weave I of the 16-thread 5-step weft-faced satin with the starting point of (1, 1) is used as a back weave I, and the 16-thread 5-step warp-faced satin weave obtained by reversing the back weave I shown inand then moving all the starting points upwards by two rows is used as the back weave II. The face warp does not interweave with the back weft, and in this way, a warp interlacing point shown inis configured. The back warp interweaves with the face weft that is the first weft W, the basic weave I of the 16-thread 5-step weft-faced satin shown inis used as a stitching weave. The back warp does not interweave with the face weft that is the second weft W, and in this way, a weft interlacing point shown inis configured, thus forming a compound weave-database of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression, as shown into. Except for the face coloring weave, the back weave, the stitching weave and the like are constant. Therefore, the compound weave is numbered according to “ZH”, “the serial number of the basic weave I”-“the serial number of the basic weave II”. For example, the “ZH-” represents that the compound weave of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression is formed by combining No. 1 weave in the face coloring weave-database I and No. 1 weave in the face coloring weave-database II (in order to make a distinction, the warp interlacing points of first weft W, the second weft W, the third weft W, and the fourth weft Ware represented by parts filled with a cross mark, parts filled with a circle with half black, parts filled with a circle with quadrant black and parts filled with a circled dot, respectively, while the weft interlacing points are all expressed in white).

Digital patterns are designed under a bitmap format. Digital patterns have arbitrary themes and include 12 colors. A series of gradient colors are designed based on each color. The obtained 12 series of gradient colors could be interspersed but not overlapped with each other in the digital patterns. In this example, the maximum color development level is 12×(N−2)=12×(16−2)=2352.

12 series of gradient colors in the digital patterns correspond to 12 sets of face coloring compound weave-databases of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression effect, respectively. Each gradient color is replaced with a face coloring weave formed by interweaving the face warp and the face weft in a corresponding weave-database by a one-to-one corresponding method. Meanwhile, a back weave formed by interweaving the back warp and the back weft, a warp interlacing point formed from a situation that the face warp does not interweave with the back weft, a stitching weave formed by interweaving the back warp with the face weft, and a weft interlacing point formed from a situation that the back warp does not interweave with the face weft are combined according to the twelve types of double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure model, thus forming a compound structure diagram of a jacquard fabric of a double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression.

Information about warp and weft selection is added to the combined structure of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression. Warp density and weft density are set, and two groups of warps (black and white) and four groups of color wefts are selected. The compound structure diagram of the jacquard fabric could be directly used to produce a jacquard fabric of the double-warp and quadruple-weft jacquard structure with double-weft color gradient expression. The fabric effect diagram achieved after the weaves are configured according to the structure model 1 inand the structure model 7 inis shown in. According to the structure model 1 in, the square part on the surface of the fabric presents a type I color gradient effect produced by two groups of face wefts, namely the first weft and the second weft, which are respectively configured with red and yellow threads, and one group of face warp, namely the first warp, which is configured with black thread. According to the structure model 7 in, an outer frame part on the surface of the fabric presents single type of solid color effect generated by two groups of face wefts, namely the first weft and the second weft, which are respectively configured with red and yellow thread, and one group of face warp, namely the second warp, which is configured with white thread.

The above content is a specific embodiment created in combination with the present disclosure, which is only used to explain and illustrate the present disclosure, rather than limiting. Any modifications, replacements and deductions made to the present disclosure, or the use of the content of the present disclosure in the local position of the fabric, etc. within the spirit of the present disclosure and the scope of the claims, all fall within the scope of the present disclosure.